Domingo 19 de julio
This morning Jared out of the blue is gone.. I walk to the bus stop and see a bus pulling off.. looks like he won't be coming to Nicaragua with us! Me, Lisa and Rachel too have decided to travel to Nicaragua. We take the 8am bus having missed the earlier 6.20am option.. we arrive at the ferry at 10.30am! After queuing up for tickets and waiting for the ferry to empty from it's previous route to the peninsular, we board and are soon heading to Puntarenas.. The start of our journey to Nicaragua has begun.
On the ferry I spot Melissa and have a better chance to catch up properly..me and Rachel also enjoy ice creams on the journey! On arrival to Puntarenas we jump onto a bus, but are dropped off soon after where we have to change buses in order to get to Cruz de Barrana.. from where we'll be able to flag down a bus heading to the border.. Peñas Blancas..
At Cruz de Barranca we wait.. and wait.. the first bus for Peñas Blancas passes without stopping, seemingly full.. they come hourly.. Our other option is to take a bus to Liberia and then to the border but we decide that the direct option.. even though we have to wait longer.. will be better.
After close to an hour and half later, we board a bus to Peñas Blancas.. sitting in the aisle. During the rest of the journey the sun slowly sets.. we drop in and out of sleep after getting seats from people departing the bus at various points. In La Cruz, the final stop before the border, me and Lisa are half asleep and don't have time to make a decision about stopping here for the night as the bus begins to pull away..
At Peñas Blancas, with Nicaragua within sight, we spend what seems like an hour deciding whether to cross the border tonight or in the morning.. finally we take a taxi back to La Cruz.. most probably the right choice in hindsight..
Lunes 20 de julio - Ometepe
Another early morning start.. we slowly awake.. pack, shower and then head to the bus terminal, making a brief stop to buy some breaky supplies.
Today we are definitely heading to Nicaragua!
At the border we pay our exit tax and then continue through immigration, stamped out we walk the short distance into Nicaragua. What follows is a long time spent at immigration.. a slow queue plus different payments which Rachel has a problem with due to not having the exact money.. (they accept Dollars plus Cordobas from me and Lisa, but from Rachel.. No!) Eventually we make it through, 13 dollars lighter and board a 'chicken bus' to Rivas.. once the bus is full up we depart..
In Rivas, we are abruptly dropped off, where there is a taxi already taking a father and son to the ferry port, needed to get to Ometepe.. where I will be heading.
The girls now decide they will first go to San Juan.. not part of my plans.. only possibly at the end of my 2 weeks in Nicaragua..so it is a quick goodbye!
At the ferry port, we have to run as there is a ferry just about to depart, we run on and pay! Volcan Concepcion is in the distance.. Ometepe Island awaits..
I have made plans to do a homestay within a small community called 'Los Ramos' on the island. When we arrive at Moyogalpa I find a bar, get wifi and make contact about my arrival.. after changing up some more dollars I wait for the bus.. There has been a national holiday this weekend so this could be the reason for no bus turning up.. instead a small mini bus passes and those of us at the stop jump in. I struggle to keep my eyes open on route only fully awaking when told I have arrived.. two other girls depart as well.
I find myself at the start of a track down adjacent to the main road leading down to the community of Los Ramos.. I am unprepared. I ask a local where I can find the home of Jose Jimenez (my host) and begin walking. They are expecting me to arrive later in the afternoon, so it is a surprise when I turn up! I introduce myself and am shown to my room. After enjoying my first meal, Jose walks me down the road to meet Jairo the tour guide for the project. He tells me about the activities available.. I am interested to find out about the community and their culture. He takes me on a tour and we eventually end up at the lake front, a place where locals come to wash their clothes and also where they fill up water from the well.. they have no running water in the community.
In the evening after dinner, I return to Jairo's home where the two girls from my bus, whom I find out are Chilean, are staying. We chat and I tell them about my travels in Chile. We then enjoy a traditional dance performance from young local dancers in the community. Here I am out of contact from the outside world.. which I have not prepared myself for or previously made plans for the length of time I will stay here.. I am slightly uncomfortable with the situation. My toilet here is a hole in the ground within a wooden shed like structure in the garden. .. a new week and a complete contrast to my time in Malpais! I fall asleep, my mosquito net providing protection from the many mozzies in my room! I have already been bitten many times on my feet during the evening.
Martes 21 de julio
I awake at 5am with a sharp pain in my right ear, causing a slight headache too. I take some paracetamol and slowly fall back asleep. After breakfast Jairo meets me and takes me on a longer walk around the surrounding areas further away.. I am still tired! We end up at a work site with over 200 new houses being built for the poorest communities on the island.. an original project by the Government, although these are often to gain votes in the upcoming elections..It is impressive to see, the work only began 3 months ago!
We finish again at the lake where we find Jose and his family. We jump on the back of his truck and head back into the village and to his home.
In the afternoon I listen, although understand only parts.. about the history of the community from Jairo's father in law.. He plays some songs from the community which I enjoy greatly! Later teaching me some on a second guitar.
I have now, however, decided to leave Los Ramos tomorrow and continue to a different part of Ometepe. I need to buy medicine for the probable infection causing me pain in my ear and I have also struggled with the solitude here. It is certainly an experience and insight to the way of life here but maybe at this point in my travels it has been a step too far with little energy.. although being here with another traveller would no doubt have changed the experience.
I awake at 5am with a sharp pain in my right ear, causing a slight headache too. I take some paracetamol and slowly fall back asleep. After breakfast Jairo meets me and takes me on a longer walk around the surrounding areas further away.. I am still tired! We end up at a work site with over 200 new houses being built for the poorest communities on the island.. an original project by the Government, although these are often to gain votes in the upcoming elections..It is impressive to see, the work only began 3 months ago!
We finish again at the lake where we find Jose and his family. We jump on the back of his truck and head back into the village and to his home.
In the afternoon I listen, although understand only parts.. about the history of the community from Jairo's father in law.. He plays some songs from the community which I enjoy greatly! Later teaching me some on a second guitar.
I have now, however, decided to leave Los Ramos tomorrow and continue to a different part of Ometepe. I need to buy medicine for the probable infection causing me pain in my ear and I have also struggled with the solitude here. It is certainly an experience and insight to the way of life here but maybe at this point in my travels it has been a step too far with little energy.. although being here with another traveller would no doubt have changed the experience.
Miercoles 22 de julio
I awake again during the night with pain in my ear.. again taking a few more paracetamol.
In the morning I eat my final cooked meal from my host mother and wait for my next step in my Nicaraguan travels. The family, I feel, think that I have not enjoyed my time here.. which for some part I haven't but nothing due to them. After waiting most of the morning for Jose to return I am ready to go!
The family kindly drive me to Altagracia, here I go to a pharmacy with Jose and to get some medicine. In an internet cafe I make contact again with the outside world.. and surprise surprise nothing new to report.. but a comfort all the same.. the wifi however doesn't work, so we find a second place. Here I decide that I will make the journey to a hostel a few travellers have recommended called Zopilate. I say my final goodbyes to Jose and his family and they drive back.
I am unsure/inbetween places/unsettled as to whether I want to go to Zopilate but have few alternative choices today. As I wait a Dutch couple, Stefan and Marjolein, approach me and ask if I know when the bus to Ojo de Agua will be leaving.
The bus, we find out, the same as mine, is not leaving for another hour or so. We begin to chat and I tell them part of my last few days experience.. they are staying at a cheap hospedaje in Altagracia along with two Spanish girls and a French girl who they met there (also meaning they are speaking a lot of Spanish.. although Stefan doesn't speak any). We head off for lunch together to a soda on the corner of the central park. We chat more and I now decide that I will also stay at the same hospedaje.. how great travelling can be when unexpected new paths merge with your own. They are very friendly, I am excited again about my time here travelling and feeling a lot more settled.
After dropping off my luggage in the room at the hospedaje and meeting the owner Maurio, we head back to the park and take the bus to the entrance of Ojo de Agua. The bus is crammed full of people making it a hot and sweaty ride. The water at Ojo de Agua is crystal clear, full of minerals coming from the source of Volcan Concepcion.
Time for a bath... !
Here I meet the Spanish girls, from Barcelona, but soon after the rain begins to heavily pour down.. we run for shelter. Next I meet Julie, the French girl, who only speaks French and Spanish... so Spanish has to be our means of conversation.
After drying off and waiting for the rain to stop we walk back to the main road and manage to get a cheap lift back in an empty mini bus driving past. Back at the hospedaje we make plans to climb Volcan Maderas tomorrow.. we buy supplies in preparation and after a drink and dinner head to bed early to get some sleep before our early morning start!
Jueves 23 de julio
It is a cloudy morning but the previous rain during breakfast has now cleared. After close to an hours climb we arrive at the mirador.. already it has been a tiring climb and at times quite a muddy affair! The clouds here unfortunately block any views of the island. Our guide.. to our shock.. tells us we have another 3 hours to go.. we had previously been told in our hospedaje that it was a 3 hr ascent..
The route continues to be muddy and therefore slippery in places. At times, as we climb, in amongst the jungle, the path is extremely steep. On route we stop to witness monkeys in the trees around us, another fantastic experience that never ceases to amaze and excite me. The encounter also makes up for the disappointing views earlier.
With an hour to go still, and my feet wet and extremely muddy, I start to lose the determination to continue... knowing that we are not going to have any great views to look forward to! Julie, who for the previous 3 hrs had been trailing behind at the back is now up front leading, taking no care with where she walks.. straight through the thick mud in her boots!
Our final stop, eventually, is to the laguna, a mist filled area meaning we can only just make out the start of the laguna's water! We eat our lunch here.. avocado and bread.. It is cold and we are wet, meaning soon after eating we are ready to begin the 4 hour descent.. great..!
First we have to climb a tricky section which we had previously gone down in order to arrive at the laguna. We have to use a rope to pull ourselves up in a few sections. Soon we are on the track back down..
3 hours later, after passing down some tricky, wet, muddy, slippy parts, we make it back to the mirador and are now able to see the whole island.. Volcan Concepcion however is still covered by clouds. But it is a much better view and a great way to finish.. well we have an hour to go still.. the days hike. When we make it back to the farm from where we started we again jump into the truck which drops us back in Altagracia.
After a much needed shower.. albeit cold.. we have washed away our dirt covered bodies.. We eat out at the same soda that serves tasty food at great prices..I enjoy a few beers and then together we all play some cards back in the hostel before crashing after such a tiring long day!
After eating breakfast, which we have ordered the previous night in preparation, we jump into a jeep that takes us to the finca at the base of Volcan Maderas and one of the entrances to the trails leading up.. this will be our starting point.
It is a cloudy morning but the previous rain during breakfast has now cleared. After close to an hours climb we arrive at the mirador.. already it has been a tiring climb and at times quite a muddy affair! The clouds here unfortunately block any views of the island. Our guide.. to our shock.. tells us we have another 3 hours to go.. we had previously been told in our hospedaje that it was a 3 hr ascent..
The route continues to be muddy and therefore slippery in places. At times, as we climb, in amongst the jungle, the path is extremely steep. On route we stop to witness monkeys in the trees around us, another fantastic experience that never ceases to amaze and excite me. The encounter also makes up for the disappointing views earlier.
With an hour to go still, and my feet wet and extremely muddy, I start to lose the determination to continue... knowing that we are not going to have any great views to look forward to! Julie, who for the previous 3 hrs had been trailing behind at the back is now up front leading, taking no care with where she walks.. straight through the thick mud in her boots!
Our final stop, eventually, is to the laguna, a mist filled area meaning we can only just make out the start of the laguna's water! We eat our lunch here.. avocado and bread.. It is cold and we are wet, meaning soon after eating we are ready to begin the 4 hour descent.. great..!
First we have to climb a tricky section which we had previously gone down in order to arrive at the laguna. We have to use a rope to pull ourselves up in a few sections. Soon we are on the track back down..
3 hours later, after passing down some tricky, wet, muddy, slippy parts, we make it back to the mirador and are now able to see the whole island.. Volcan Concepcion however is still covered by clouds. But it is a much better view and a great way to finish.. well we have an hour to go still.. the days hike. When we make it back to the farm from where we started we again jump into the truck which drops us back in Altagracia.
After a much needed shower.. albeit cold.. we have washed away our dirt covered bodies.. We eat out at the same soda that serves tasty food at great prices..I enjoy a few beers and then together we all play some cards back in the hostel before crashing after such a tiring long day!
Viernes 24 de julio - Granada
Today I plan to leave Ometepe and head to Granada..I have made contact with both Mali and Rachel to find out their plans and meeting back up. Rachel and Lisa have spent one night in Granada and plan to stay for a second, they reserve me and Julie a space at their hostel after Julie also decides to head that way.
We take a bus to Moyogalpa and before taking the ferry back to mainland we again buy avocado and bread for lunch. The sun comes out as the ferry pulls away, leaving Ometepe behind us.. ahead of me new places to see in Nicaragua. The long journey across to mainland is at times very choppy, one girl on board suffering the affects of sea sickness.
On the mainland we share a taxi to the Rivas bus terminal with two English guys. On arrival to the terminal we are rounded by taxi drivers trying to convince us to pay for a ride with them.. we are told that 'apparently' there is no bus to Granada for another 2 hours.. we doubt this.. and a find bus, the cheapest option, which we can take part of the way and then change for another.. although this is also simply the driver trying to fill up his bus as a few minutes later a direct bus to Granada pulls into the terminal.. by terminal I mean a dirt covered car park style area.. We swap buses and after a short wait depart.. a very sweaty wait!
In Granada we find the hostel.. a nice place with a good laid back vibe, very low key and not too big. Soon I am catching up with Lisa and then later Rachel.. it is great to see some familiar faces again! Me and Julie eat out,after a long days travel, we don't wish to cook in the kitchen! In the evening as a group we make plans to head to Laguna de Apoyo.. I'll return and explore Granada next weekend before crossing the border back to Costa Rica on Sunday ready for my monday morning return filght home...
Today I plan to leave Ometepe and head to Granada..I have made contact with both Mali and Rachel to find out their plans and meeting back up. Rachel and Lisa have spent one night in Granada and plan to stay for a second, they reserve me and Julie a space at their hostel after Julie also decides to head that way.
We take a bus to Moyogalpa and before taking the ferry back to mainland we again buy avocado and bread for lunch. The sun comes out as the ferry pulls away, leaving Ometepe behind us.. ahead of me new places to see in Nicaragua. The long journey across to mainland is at times very choppy, one girl on board suffering the affects of sea sickness.
On the mainland we share a taxi to the Rivas bus terminal with two English guys. On arrival to the terminal we are rounded by taxi drivers trying to convince us to pay for a ride with them.. we are told that 'apparently' there is no bus to Granada for another 2 hours.. we doubt this.. and a find bus, the cheapest option, which we can take part of the way and then change for another.. although this is also simply the driver trying to fill up his bus as a few minutes later a direct bus to Granada pulls into the terminal.. by terminal I mean a dirt covered car park style area.. We swap buses and after a short wait depart.. a very sweaty wait!
In Granada we find the hostel.. a nice place with a good laid back vibe, very low key and not too big. Soon I am catching up with Lisa and then later Rachel.. it is great to see some familiar faces again! Me and Julie eat out,after a long days travel, we don't wish to cook in the kitchen! In the evening as a group we make plans to head to Laguna de Apoyo.. I'll return and explore Granada next weekend before crossing the border back to Costa Rica on Sunday ready for my monday morning return filght home...
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