Friday, 20 March 2015

La Serena, Elqui Valley, Valpariso.. my final week in Chile


Martes 17 de febrero en la noche: Santiago - La Serena

Megan is heading to a friends leaving meal tonight before our night bus, so on arrival to Santiago I take the metro to Manuel Montt where I have some dinner. My phone is nearly out of battery and I currently don’t know the exact address of where Megan is!

 After eating I search around the area for wifi in order to get in contact with Megan and then make my way to where she is. When I eventually arrive at an impressive apartment in an up market area of Santiago, just a few stops away from where I am, I find myself at a sophisticated evening meal! I am introduced to the guests and I am reunited with Megan. I am glad that I happen to be wearing a smartish shirt as it is a well dressed event. I arrive just as they are about to eat.. it is past 10pm and our bus is at half past 11 so we don’t have much time! I join them for some of the BBQ beef and salad but soon we are saying our goodbyes. 

Megan needs to stop by at her apartment to pick up her bags so we decide to get a taxi from the main street, but as we turn the corner we find ourselves in traffic due to roadworks! We reach Megan’s apartment close to 11pm, she quickly runs in to pick up her bags for the trip and then we continue in the taxi to the bus terminal.. perfect timing..! 

Ahead of us we have a 7 hour bus ride but with cama seats we have plenty of room. Ipod in and time for an on/off sleep through the night.

Miercoles 18 de febrero - La Serena

We arrive in La Serena around 6am. We take a taxi to our hostel where we crash on a couple of uncomfy sofa seats. Megan has booked herself onto the Isla Damas day trip today so is picked up soon after at 7am. It is a similar to my penguin trip in Chiloe and other wildlife I have seen previously, so I have decided to spend the day exploring La Serena. I try to get some sleep but end up with a crooked neck!

Later in the morning I watch a documentary filming the early stages of Tim Minchin (comedian/musician) and chill out at the hostel. Around midday I head out to have a wander around La Serena, and have some lunch. I then walk to the bus station to look at me and Megan’s options for the bus to Valparaiso.

Megan returns around half 5, we then book up our trips for tomorrow; Valle de Elqui day trip and an observatory trip in the evening (weather dependent!). We then head back to the bus station, along with two Chileans from our dorm, to buy our Friday bus tickets. The only tickets left now is the 6.20am bus.. early.. especially if we go to the observatory trip as we will return around 1am! But it is our only option now so we get them booked up.

We then head back to the centre of La Serena to find somewhere to eat.. we arrive just before Happy Hour is about to finish so we order the deal; 2 Pisco sours and a Chorillana (Chilean dish.. a big plate of chips with meat, onions and eggs on top). A hit or miss dish (due to the often excess of oil), this one proves to be one of the best I have had.

In the night.. a snorer.. arghh !  










Jueves 19 de febrero - Valle de Elqui


We are up and ready to be picked up at 9am.. as we walk over to the minibus outside our hostel the guide abruptly and in a grump greets us ‘You’re the English speaking ones..?’ .. Megan is infact advanced at Spanish.. but we simply reply ‘Yes’.. ‘Why are you here if you don’t speak Spanish…?’.. ‘To learn!’!! Not the start to the day we had expected but soon we are off. Throughout the day we get a watered down version of the information in English!

The first stop, after an hours drive.. with commentary on route (I was hoping for a nap), is Vicuña. We think that we have an hour here so first head to the supermarket to buy some snacks for the day and breakfast. We then have a wander around the main plaza, passing by many market stalls and also see the church. Megan buys a nice pair of earrings from one of the jewellery stalls. We sit in the plaza, eat some cheese and crackers and then return to the minibus to find that we are late.. providing our guide with more ammunition to be even more grumpy with us!

Our next stop is to a Pisco distillary! Again.. we hear much information in Spanish followed by an even shorter response in English.. this time simply.. ‘Do you know how they make wine… it’s the same..’ …'You know how they make Vodka.. the same..!’

After the short tour it is time for some pisco tasting.. which is great! We have two flavoured piscos to taste. Me and Megan then buy a bottle to take with us to Valapaiso at the weekend. Before leaving we watch a barman make a pisco based cocktail using ginger, elderflower tonic and bitters. Next we head further through Elqui Valley.. I fall asleep briefly.. fueling many laughs from Megan as I have missed some of the best parts of the Valley! We stop off in another small town and then it is time for lunch.

The lunch is tasty and during the meal our previously grumpy guide (possibly also linked to an early morning start. .) chats with me, Megan and the others sat nearby. Megan is able to converse in Spanish. The group includes a woman with her baby and mother. The little baby is cute and laughs when me and Megan make funny faces! 

On our route back we stop at the museum, home and classroom of Chilean Noble Prize Winner for Literature in 1945 
Gabriela Mistral. An insightful and interesting stop. 

Finally we make a stop for a picture opportunity of the Valley from a large dam. Me and Megan have been having plenty of laughs and take some silly pics after chatting about people who take pictures of you missing the main scenary/sights/monuments. 


We return back around 6pm and if all goes to plan we'll be picked up at 9pm for the observatory tour.. today the weather has been a lot clearer. We decide to walk down to the beach.. a longer than expected 40min walk.. so soon after we have to turn back!


When we return to our hostel we are unfortunately told that our trip has been cancelled due to weather conditions.. we head to the supermarket.. and after 6 months travel I have my first pot noodle.. Megan has ticked the American stereotype here!! We can get to bed early ready for our early bus tomorrow.  




































Viernes 20 de febrero - Valparaiso

The alarm wakes me up at 5.40am.. our bus is at 6.20am... we have prebooked a taxi to pick us up at 5.50am. 

We arrive at the bus station and wait ... and wait... and wait for the bus... finally it turns up at 7am! We get on board and fall asleep.. however not long into the journey we are, along with the two other girls sat either side of us, woken by an incredibly annoying. . and slightly disturbing heavy phlegmy snorer! Ipod on, music turned up and I attempt more sleep. 


My thoughts turn to how soon I'll be leaving Chile and once again leaving behind friends, like Megan, made during this time. After 6 months of traveling, with people coming in and out of my life, often with deep connections built quickly, has proven to be both an exciting and fulfilling experience but can also be very tiring and draining. This feeling is not new.. often as I set off on my journeys to new destinations and countries, not knowing where my future path will lead me too, I live again those moments I've experienced in the near past. I ramble on.. 


On arrival to Valparaiso we take a taxi to our hostel, straight away we are made to feel welcome and there is a chilled out atmosphere throughout the place. After a quick refresh we head straight out again to the 'tours for tips' walking tour. 


An informative and insightful 3 hour tour around the city. Exploring many side streets filled with artwork on the hills of the city. 

After the tour we go on a short boat trip from the port where we get a chance to see the city from a distance, unfortunately it is a cloudy day so not the best pictures. 

On our route back to the hostel we pick up a lime soda from a store nearby in order to mix with our bottle of pisco. Before heading back out for dinner we enjoy a few glasses.. not quite a pisco sour.. or the cocktail we saw made at the distillary but still a nice refreshing drink.. and a pretty strong one too! We have a meal at a recommended place from our tour, and then head to another bar for a stout beer. A great day, evening and company.









































Sabado 21 de febrero - Isla Negra

Today Megan’s friend, also from the Spanish school in Santiago, Max, will be arriving and staying for two days/one night. I head off to Isla Negra in order to visit another of Pablo Neruda’s homes. Max has already previously visited here so the girls head off for a day on the beach. It is a sunny day, with blue skies above. I have an enjoyable afternoon, and arrive back in the early evening. 

We join the French staff at the hostel, along with two German brothers staying here for a BBQ and drinks. The girls pick up some ‘questionable’ burgers from the supermarket..whereas everyone else has fresh meat from the local butchers! Our food turns out good, no doubt the wine helps.. After a few more drinks, and some pisco,  we plan to head out. Only me, the older German and two of the staff head to the local bars. We end up at a bar with very cheap Terremoto’s.. a dangerous drink.. a fun and very late night.

















Domingo 22 de febrero - Valparaiso/ Viña del Mar

I make the right decision before sleeping to drink plenty of water, so come the morning I have limited the impact of the hangover. The girls stayed in and we all have breaky at 10am. Food is helpful! We then head out for a walk around the side streets amongst the hills of Valparaiso.. passing by parts of the tour from Friday.. we even bump into our guide on a tour. The day is once again clear and sunny. We grab a coffee, juice, brownie combo deal and then sit on a bench overlooking the city, great views, good times, I need to pinch myself.. how difficult come september it maybe!

Things could be a lot worse..

We continue for a wander around the city, heading to the stairs with the message painted on them ‘We are no hippies, we are happies’. After continuing our stroll down the colourful, often graffitied streets we stop at a café for a coffee and I order some food. Next we make our way back to our hostel via a questionable dirt road..

I am soon asleep back in bed, needing a nap after little sleep last night. Max leaves to catch her bus back to Santiago. When I get up Megan is face timing her friend back in the US, Matthew, I briefly chat and then we make our way to Viña del Mar. It is now the early evening, on route we take the metro and end up going one stop too far. So on exit from the station we have a longer than intended walk to the beach front! We have already been told negative things about Viña and it proves to be correct! Lacking the colour and culture of Valpo.

As we arrive at the beach the sun is setting in the distance. We are both hungry so head to the only beach side restaurent/bar, where we have a couple seafood dishes.. not the best but it fills us up. On route back we take the bus and chill out in the hostel.














Lunes 23 de febrero - Valparaiso


Today we are checking out and later in the day we will be taking the bus back to Santiago. It is our last day together, which fills me with sadness. It’s been great spending the past week with Megan, she is a laid back easy going girl, we have had plenty of laughs together but soon I’ll be continuing my adventures in Ecuador.

Today we have booked ourselves onto a cooking course, which we found out about on ‘tours for tips’ walking tour. We head down to the plaza by the port where we meet our chef along with the other travellers taking part. Me and Megan are both hungry having not eaten breakfast today.

First of all we all head to the markets to buy the ingredients for the dishes (we agreed on together before setting off) that we will be cooking this afternoon.. and eating! There are eight of us in total. Today our menu will be Pebre, Ceviche, Empanadas del Pino, Pastel de Choclo, Ensalada Verde, Ensalada Chilena, Leche Asada, Pisco Sour and Vino!

At the cooking cuisine destination we split into groups to begin preparing different parts of the menu. I finely cut up onions, tomatoes, garlic for the pebre. We all then prepare our Pastel de Choclo (a sweet corn cake with chicken, beef, onion, olives, egg and raisins inside).. next we each make our empanadas.. inside has the same ingredients as the Pastel de Choclo apart from the corn and chicken! Then finally… it is.. Pisco Sour time!! Very tasty.. the main difference we learn between Chile and Peru’s Pisco Sour is that Chile uses lemons and Peru lime + bitters.

Soon we are sat down at table.. now cleared and cleaned after plenty of preparation during the previous few hours, ready to eat.. plus drink some excellent Chilean red and white wines. The group is a good mix, and we have had plenty of jokes during the afternoon. It is a shame that me and Megan are heading back to Santiago as the group head off for more drinks after we leave the class.

Back to the hostel to pick up our bags, and then to the bus terminal where we get a bus, leaving soon after our arrival there, to Santiago. Back in Santiago we take the Metro into the centre, it is a brief goodbye to Megan, we plan to meet for lunch tomorrow before my flight which is late afternoon. I then return to Hostel Providencia, where I previously spent my first two weeks in Santiago. It is nice to see familiar faces and catch up with some of the staff.. plus a friend I made who is still staying at the hostel! The barman for the night makes me a welcome back free terremoto.. perfect!  

















Martes 24 de febrero - Santiago

My flight today is at 5.30pm, so I use the morning to wash my clothes.. it is free to use the washing machine here. I then get packed.. ahead of me awaits my next leg of this 'mid twenties gap year' I am on.

My previous plans to meet Megan for lunch have to be cancelled after Megan’s spanish class has been rearranged to midday.. I might be able to briefly say bye before I make my way to the airport.

So, another new country awaits me, but I find myself reflecting on the past few months in Chile and overall the six months I’ve been away. It has certainly been a fantastic experience so far, opening my eyes to the endless parts of the world. Despite how much I have seen, and how far I have travelled, I have merely touched the surface of places and countries to see. Meeting a variety of people along the way has enriched my time, of which I am very thankful. I have passed the half way point, resulting in the emergence of in my sight of the end of this adventure and my return to the UK and work. Who know’s where the future lies, but I have certainly further stimulated my enthusiasm to see the world, experience new cultures and.. although still at a basic level of Spanish, fueled the passion to learn and master other languages… English as my mother tongue has been both an advantage and a negative in my upbringing and education.

Unfortunately I am unable to see Megan before heading off, but I have spent a great week with her to end my time in Chile. A country I have grown greatly attached to… the alcohol here has certainly been a highlight of my travels!

After a brief mishap with the electronic check in machines, I am soon passing through security and then later boarding my plane.. only after take off do I realise I have been upgraded to business class.. a great meal is presented to me! Goodbye Chile.. I hope I will be back again sometime in the future…



No comments:

Post a Comment